Bula!
My first day (Thursday 2/4) was entirely filled with travel. I arrived at the airport around 7:30am and made it through the ticket line and security without a hitch. I met up with Meredith (another SMC student studying abroad with me) in the ticket line and we went through security together and sat at our gate waiting for the other students to arrive. Danielle (also from Maine) showed up first, followed by Nick (also SMC) and then Caitlin and Naz. The six of us boarded our plane and flew to Chicago where we met up with a few others. The first two flights, though long, were fun because we got to know each other while sitting on the planes and in the airports. When we arrived at LAX, Mark (one of the guys we met in Chicago) promptly announced “Hopped off a plane at LAX” which was only too appropriate, and we were all stunned by how warm it was outside (we had to walk outside to get to the international terminal). The bunch of us all sat down for our first family dinner and then made our way to the final terminal in our first adventure. Upon arriving, we ran into a great portion of the other AIFS students (there are 32 of us total, I believe) and boarded the plane not long after. The flight was excruciatingly long but started at 9:30pm and went for 10 hours overnight so I just slept for most of it. I was sitting next to Caitlin and we talked for a while which also made the ride seem just a bit shorter than it was. Apparently while I was passed out there was an emergency on board and the flight attendants were freaking out and the plane was filling with smoke but I'm quite happy to say that I don't remember that at all. They served us wine, dinner at 11pm and breakfast at 3am and then we arrived at the airport in Nadi, Fiji around 4:30am Fiji time on Saturday morning (we missed an entire day because of the time change) and went through customs, baggage claim, currency exchange and meetings with our AIFS Fiji coordinators Sera and Safaira before first stepping outside at 7am. The humidity hit me right away and the first thing that I noticed was the smell! Fiji definitely has that incredible island scent that just reminds me of paradise. I expected the landscape to be flat but it turns out that Fiji is made up of gorgeous hills that, from the distance, look like a jungle version of the Vermont mountainscape. Also, the cultural differences were immediately apparent when I realized that men often walk around barefoot, among other things. I first said that the level of poverty seemed apparent but I think that the style of living is just extremely different than it is in the states (more about that later).
We were shipped straight to the hotel after stepping outside and I was immediately reminded that the cars move in the opposite directions to those in the states. That came to bite me in the ass when I forgot later and nearly walked into traffic. Also, drivers are CRAZY and basically just weave around each other in hopes of survival. We were all paired up at the hotel and I was placed with a girl named Becca from LA. Her and I have become pretty close so far, along with a few other girls, and I hope that continues to be the case throughout the rest of the semester. We all want to focus most on travel while in Australia and have similar ideas of what we expect/want to get out of the entire experience.
After we moved into our rooms we went to our second breakfast of the day at a restaurant across the street (AH!) from the hotel called Ohana. They fed us for the entire 2 days that we were in Nadi and we ate some delicious meals including burgers with fried egg, cheese, cucumber, cole slaw, and ketchup with chips (fries); grilled white fish with fried eggplant; and a breakfast buffet with fresh pineapple, papaya, banana, and watermelon. We had Fijian orange juice at every meal, too, and it is very different than that at home. The whole first day was spent at the pool where we all got to know each other pretty well. The sun and the heat were really intense and I think that we were all in the pool for nearly 4 hours straight. Later, a few of us sat at the hotel bar and had a delicious drink called the Flying Fijian (pineapple juice, blue caraco, contreau, and vodka) and watched a rugby tournament that the Fiji team was playing in. After dinner, the same group of girls and I went to the bar above Ohana, had a drink, and made friends with Elizabeth, our bartender. It's pretty cool being of age and just being able to get a drink when I feel like getting one.
The next morning we woke up for an early breakfast and Becca and I did a bit of adventuring. We walked next door to the grocer and then found a strip of stores including a hamburger breakfast store, a vegan restaurant, and a little bakery. That day, we were told little about our home stays and then bused to a harbor where we loaded a boat and drove deep into the depths of the Pacific. As we moved further out the water changed into the most beautiful blue that I've ever seen. The island that we stayed on for the day is called South Sea Island and we could see it as we approached because of the bright white color of the shore―instead of sand it is covered in white coral pieces. The island itself was around 100 yards from one end to the other and is basically there for backpackers and tourists. We were welcomed by a little quartet of singers playing tropical instruments and met by a “This is your island, we just work in it” and a BBQ of white fish, chicken, sausage, steak, potato salad, pasta salad, fruit, and other various stuff. We were allowed free drinks so many took advantage but I instead spent 90% of my time snorkeling or hanging out in or around the water. We snorkeled for a while and were called over by a woman working on the island who were feeding 20+ small sharks. I stood thigh deep in water with sharks swimming around me and it was the coolest experience. We snorkeled some more and were called over for a “submarine ride” which turned out to be a glass bottom boat that was 100 degrees inside and full of AIFS students and others. Afterwards, a bunch of us played beach volleyball (inluding Fijian workers and Aussie men) and then 6 of us girls we went out with Jerry, one of the Fijian workers, a couple of Aussie guys, and a crazy Asian couple who snorkeled fully clothed (hats included), deeper into the ocean and snorkeled some more. Jerry dove down and picked up a sea cucumber and also a giant blue starfish to pass around. We saw some beautiful fish, and, though the coral itself generally wasn't colorful or pretty, it was a really good time. I attempted to dive with the guidance of my new Aussie friends, but failed due to feeling as though my head was going to explode.
We left the island not long after and went to Ohana for a pasta dinner. Afterwards, the same group of us girls went upstairs to the bar again and had a few delicious Vanu (I think) lager beers (the first Fijian beer that I was impressed by) and ended up talking to a couple of men from Melbourne for nearly 4 hours. We were interruped by a drunk Fijian named Tom who was pleasant but promptly escorted out of the bar after trying to convince us to go to a trance/dance club down the street. The guys essentially gave us a crash course in everything we need to know about Australia including the deadly animals (not common to see AT ALL), the places to see (Whitsunday Islands, Brisbane, and obviously Melbourne), the fact that everything is expensive, and what kinds of things to do. They were really funny guys and we had an amazing time hanging with them until nearly midnight. Also, I'm obsessed with the accents―they make me want to melt. We went back to the hotel and Becca and I stayed up until nearly 1:30am just talking and journaling.
The next morning we woke up very early for breakfast and then had a briefing about Suva culture and expectations and talked about what we would be experiencing in the welcome ceremony on campus. We named our chief for the ceremony (Wiley) who would drink the traditional Kava first and represent us in our arrival. The drive from Nadi to Suva took about 3 hours (West to East coasts) but we stopped a couple of times on the way to break it up. The first stop was at the Sigatoka Dunes where we hiked for 2 hours in the intense heat up both hillside and sand dunes to see beautiful 360 degree views of the ocean, jungle-like hillsides, and sand dunes. After hiking up, with a few wipe outs we trudged down the sand dunes and walked a couple of miles along the beach. The trip was exhausting but so worth it―it was one of the most beautiful things i've ever seen. After leaving sweaty and sandy we drove for a ways and stopped at the Berrada Beach Inn for lunch. We had an amazing BBQ and were able to catch part of the Superbowl on TV after eating (at noon!). We continued on our way to the University of the South Pacific where we were welcomed in the traditional ceremonial way. We all sat opposite a group of men and a giant bowl for mixing Kava and in their traditional language they welcomed us to the island, mixed the Kava, offered it to our chief Wiley, and drank it. Then, we were all given Kava to try―it tasted like a really earthy cold tea and made my tongue go numb. It is considered medicinal but many people treat it as a drug, similar to Alcohol, that affects the mind and body. The quantity we drank was fairly small so the tongue-numbing and slight lightheaded feelings were the only that we felt.
We met our home stay families after the ceremony―I stayed with two other girls, Jamie from Fairbanks, Alaska and Rebecca from Long Island, NY. Our host father, Tim, met us at the school and we took a cab from campus to his house across town. He lives with his wife, his nephew, and his two grandsons (7 month old and 2 year old) but yesterday his niece and mother were at the home as well. The homes are so much different than in the states. At first I was extremely shocked by it―there is no furniture! Apparently living room furniture wasn't introduced to Fiji until the 1980's so many families don't find it necessary to have it. Instead, the living room is covered in straw mats that the family sits and lies down on when in the room. Sometimes the entire family will sleep on the floor in the living room, as well. I've been lying around on the floor quite a bit, myself―it has been easy for me to fall into some of the habits that I've encountered thus far.
The house that we are in has internet (yes!) but does not have AC or any fans. Instead they leave the doors and windows open and the breeze takes care of most of the uncomfortable-ness of the heat. We ate a dinner consisting of boiled Taro Root (extremely flavorless), curried chicken and potatoes, and a cucumber/tomato salad. We also ate “ice blocks” that our host mom makes and sells (made of milk, strawberry flavoring, and sugar) which were the most delicious popsicles i've ever eaten. We lied around for a while talking and then went to bed around 10 after showering with the geckos (they come in and out of the house at night―very cool!
The next day I woke up around 7:30am due to heat and unfamiliar surroundings and hung out with Tim until the others woke up. We got ready and had breakfast (porridge, hard boiled eggs, and bread with butter) and then Tim brought us to downtown Suva for a few hours. First, we went to a museum that covered the history and culture of Fiji. It was really cool, too―we got to see traditionally built canoes, rafts, weapons, and dresses and got to see lots of different artwork and conceptual work regarding the environment and social issues created by students. We walked across the city afterwards and stopped at the handywork markets where I bartered for a hand carved wooden lobster (SO different than lobsters in Maine, I had to!) and ended up getting it for half the price that they offered (The exchange rate is almost 2:1 here, so I spent around $5USD on it). I did a bit of gift shopping and met a student from USP and chatted with him for a while. We walked to the market last and Tim bought us each fresh pineapple that looked like a popsicle, the rind was the stick and half the pineapple was carved. We then loaded a bus (Suva is FULL of buses and taxis, many people don't drive at all) and headed home. The city was interesting, too: full of different smells mostly consisting of curry and exhaust, and the people are all so friendly, shouting Bula! (hello/welcome) at us just like everyone did in Nadi. Also, the heat and humidity was TERRIBLE in the city because the breeze was blocked but it was a fun place to be with Tim as a local and not as a tourist. We had lunch after returning and lied around for quite a while. The 3 of us girls walked and took pictures for a bit and went to the local chemist (pharmacy) for some water. We had the most incredible dinner that our host mom cooked for us after that. It consisted of a sort of layered casserole made with boiled and crushed taro leaf (we ate taro root last night), coconut milk (fresh! We watched our "cousin" Ben carve out the coconut!), canned corned beef, onion, and tomato with white Fijian sweet potato (was grainy and textured much like the taro root but SO good) and cucumber. For dessert we tried a Fijian fruit called Wi that tasted like a mix between sour apple, pear, and snap pea with a really gritty tough texture. Now I'm drinking tea, something that I've done nearly twice a day since arriving, and about to eat another ice block. Along with tea, we've been eating sooo much fresh raisin bread with butter―they offer it to us for snack and tea time daily along with meals.
The next day was Wednesday and we started up our lectures. We took a cab into USP with Tim and hung out for a while before our first lecture at 9am. Due to technical difficulties our lecture was postponed to the next day so we all explored campus and had tea (lunch 1, for all intensive purposes). After that, we had what should have been our second lecture which was really interesting and about aspects of Fiji's history and the history of the pacific islands. We had lunch 2 and went on an adventure to buy ice cream for the hour that we had off. We had our last lecture and then went home for a bit and later that night met up with some friends at O'Reilly's (an Irish dance pub, so strange) for some drinks and pool. We invited our "cousins" Ben and Jo and Jamie and I ended up hanging out with them for most of the night. It was a lot of fun to hang out with them, as well as everyone else, outside of Uni and the homestay.
On Thursday we had lectures all day and then the 3 of us hung out with all of our boys at the pool on campus. The night was pretty laid back, as we had to study for our exam in the morning. I didn't do much studying, but instead hung out and talked with Jo for a long time. The meals continued to be awesome, and I acquired a taste for Taro root. The exam in the morning was long but not too tough--we had to write a 1-page essay for each lecture on a question provided. The only thing is, the standard paper size is nearly 1.5x what it is at home... just a strange difference, I guess. The test went well, though, and afterwards we went for a meal at McD's, which was basically the only thing in Fiji that was WAY overpriced. We were supposed to do community service but because of the rain we weren't able to do the landscaping project that they had planned out for us. Instead, a bunch of us went to see Extraordinary Measures, which was terrible, and then got ready at home and went out for the night. Jamie, Rebecca, Jo, Ben, and I went to O'Reilly's but they wouldn't let Jo or Jamie in due to the dress code. We met up with a few people and ended up at a dance club called Traps. Almost our entire group met up there and we stuck around until nearly 2am. There was some dancing, drinking, and drama, but we all had a really good time. Afterwards, Jo and I went to the beach until almost 4am to go swimming and then we headed back home and slept in in the morning.
The next day was really slow--we had a free day with our families and then a farewell dinner that night. During the day we all just lied around and relaxed. I went for a walk with Jo and his friend Elena who lived down the street for a couple of hours and they showed me where they grew up and where they went to school and such. It was a lot of fun getting close to local Fijians--I really feel like I made a couple of friends while staying in the country. That night after dinner I was meant to drink Kava with the two of them but Tim wouldn't let me go out so I stayed in instead. In the morning we drove back to Nadi and stopped at Kula animal park and a really cool Hindu temple. That night we took it easy in the hotel and then in the morning we flew out of Fiji and into Sydney. The flight wasn't bad--I slept for most of it, and when we arrived in Sydney we were all extremely awake and excited for the adventure to come.
I'm really surprised by how I felt in Fiji. Because of such a distinct, strong culture so different from my own I almost wish that I was studying abroad in a place more similar to this and less like a large Sydney-like city. With that being said, Australian culture is very different than that from America and I'm so excited that I'm here and will be spending the semester here. The AIFS group is so much fun and, while I am a bit homesick for people at home, I'm loving where I am and can't wait to see where I am taken!
Our first day was free so we took time to settle in, do a small amount of grocery shopping, and just got to know the shopping mall and campus a little bit. Over the next few days, we had a harbor cruise, Sydney bus tour, a bunch of BBQs around campus (Aussie BBQs are a bit different than at home--they have sausage and chicken and use wonderbread instead of buns). As of now I've been to Bondi, Manly, Cronulla, and Newport beaches. So far, Newport is my favorite--we went a couple days ago and because of a rainstorm in the morning, and the fact that it it a northern beach meaning fewer tourists, we were literally the only ones on the beach. The waves at all of the beaches are extremely different too--Newport seems to be the only one where waves crash from one direction, making it slightly easier to stay alive in the water, but the waves are what you would imagine Aussie waves to look like--they're HUGE. Also, Aussie lifeguards make things better as well. We have been bombarded with the "swim between the flags" rule, as the rip is so strong that it often pulls people out. We talked with some Bondi lifeguards about this and about the fact that they're pretty much famous as they star on Bondi Rescue, a docu-drama tv show that is huge here.
